June 3rd 2009
Today we went on an outing with Tim Wallace Murphy, a friend of Nall’s. The day started with a visit to the Abbaye Du Thoronet, a monastery near le Luc, & les Arcs s/Argens, in the south of France. I think that I speak for the group in saying that it was a very spiritual experience. Tim is an expert in this subject and has even written several books about related subjects, so it was amazing to hear how much he knew about the traditions of the monks that had once inhabited the area. The entire monastery was built by the monks by hand and it was amazing to envision the place serving it’s original function. Knowing the amount of work that had gone into the creation of the place made every stone significant and beautiful. I was fascinated by the fact that in touching the wall I was touching something that someone had placed by hand in a true labor of love.
The chapel was my favorite room in the building. Although it consisted of very few details as the monks did not want to distract from worship, it made the details that were present even more breath taking. The light pouring in through the stained glass windows colored parts of the room in yellows and pinks, and the acoustics were incredible. Tim performed a chant that had been put to music and it felt as though the sound was flooding the room and seeping into me. It was one of the most spiritual experiences that I have ever had, and I think that it is safe to say that everyone present was touched by it. It was truly a blessing.
We then visited other rooms and learned about traditions, such as where the dead were laid out to prepare for burial, and the fact that the monks were buried without a coffin either laying face down as a sign of humility or in special circumstances buried standing up. The sleeping quarters were also very simple, and we learned that the monks had to sleep without glass in the windows and so were exposed to the cold and wind. As I brushed up against one of the stones it was cool to the touch. If it was that cold in May, I can’t imagine what it must have been like in the dead of winter! Tim also mentioned that if the monks were fortunate enough to have any bedding at all, it only consisted of a thin layer of straw. The working rooms were also simple, and Tim explained that there was a portion of each day set aside for the monks to walk around the square and read scripture. I couldn’t believe when Tim said that the monks spoke very little in order to maintain a high level of concentration on the tasks at hand. Normally that would have seemed very lonely, but being in the space I could understand how words would not be necessary and would almost take away from the purity of the space. The dedication and love that the monks put into their work left an almost tangible effect on the space. The entire experience was such a treat, and we were so grateful that Tim shared it with us.
In choosing a place to eat lunch, we decided to take our baguettes and roasted chicken to the river for a picnic instead of just sitting at a wooden table. It was the best meal that I have had since being in France, and that is really saying something! We made a sort of sandwich using the bread, meat, and chicken juice, and it was a meal that I could certainly get used to! The area was beautiful some of us even swam in the water.
Tim then suggested that we get coffee and visit an old medieval town in Les Arcs sur Argens. Of course we were more than delighted to comply with this request! Besides the installation of running water and electricity very little had been touched since the early days of the town. It was built on a hillside, and to reach the top and look out over the French countryside was absolutely amazing. We also went into a church that held old artifacts found in the area.
We then drove to the beach in Cannes to swim in the surf and enjoy the sunshine. Due to the fact that Joseph and I are both interested in musical theater and are not the least bit shy about starting a show tune, the ride was colored by lots of laughter and singing. It was a beautiful day, and I think it is safe to say that any future outings suggested by Tim will be welcomed adventures!
-Amelia Couture